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Aug 06, 2026

Do I Need a Transformer for My Gobo Projector? Voltage & Power, Explained

Close-up of a hand adjusting a gobo projector, showing the compact power cord that runs on standard household voltage

Every Infinity projector plugs into a normal wall outlet — no transformer to buy, no electrician to call. Here’s exactly how the power supply handles the voltage, so you know precisely what you’re plugging into what.

The short answer: No, you don’t need a separate transformer. Every plug-in Infinity projector already has one built into its power cord. Plug it into a standard outlet and you’re projecting.

Why you’ll see two different voltage numbers

Look up the specs on a gobo or logo projector and you’ll run into two numbers that seem to disagree: a low voltage on one line, a much higher one on another. Both are correct. They’re not describing two different products — they’re describing two different stops on the same power path, before and after the same power supply.

How a gobo projector's power path works A wall outlet supplies standard household AC power. The projector's power supply, also called a driver, takes that AC in and outputs a lower, safe voltage, the exact figure depending on the product line. That low voltage runs the LED light engine that projects your logo. The driver is already included, either built into the fixture or supplied as a separate component in the box, so nothing extra needs to be bought or wired. THE WALL THE POWER SUPPLY — INCLUDED ON THE CORD THE PROJECTOR HEAD Any wall outlet Standard AC power AC in Built-in Power Supply (a.k.a. the "driver" — this is your transformer, included on the cord) INPUT Wall power AC (range by model) OUTPUT Low voltage varies by model Auto-switching — works worldwide, no separate transformer to buy. DC out Your logo, projected Wall power is what you plug in. A low, safe voltage is what comes out to run the light. Nothing extra to buy. Nothing extra to wire. Just plug it in. How a gobo projector's power path works, stacked for mobile Same power path as the desktop diagram, stacked vertically: wall outlet, then the built-in power supply, then the projector head. THE WALL Wall outlet Household AC power AC in THE POWER SUPPLY INCLUDED ON THE CORD Built-in Power Supply (a.k.a. the "driver" — your transformer, included on the cord) INPUT Wall power (AC) (range by model) OUTPUT Low voltage (varies by model) Auto-switching — works worldwide, no separate transformer to buy. DC out THE PROJECTOR HEAD Your logo, projected Wall power is what you plug in. A low, safe voltage is what runs the light. Nothing extra to buy. Nothing extra to wire.

1. The wall: standard household or commercial power

This is ordinary power — the same kind that runs a lamp or a phone charger. Most Infinity projectors (Indoor, Outdoor, Multi-Gobo, Water Ripple and similar lines) have a wide-range, auto-switching power supply built directly into the fixture, rated for AC 85–265V — comfortably covering every country’s standard mains power, from a US 120V outlet to a European 230V outlet, with no user action.

2. The power supply: your built-in “transformer”

Its only job is converting the wall’s AC power down to the lower, steady voltage the LED engine actually uses. In the lighting industry it’s usually called a “driver,” but calling it a transformer is fair too — that’s exactly what it does. It ships included with every unit; there’s nothing extra to source or wire in.

“For recessed projection lights, the power supply acts as a transformer; designing it for a wide input voltage range is sufficient. When we speak of ‘low voltage,’ we are referring to the output voltage, whereas the wall voltage represents the input voltage — that is, the voltage at the power supply end.”— Infinity Projectors’ manufacturing partner

3. The projector head: a low, safe voltage — the exact number depends on the line

This is where it matters which product you have, so here’s the real number per line, straight from our manufacturer’s spec sheet:

Product linePower supply locationRated voltage
Indoor, Outdoor, Multi-Gobo (4/6/8), Water Ripple, FlexMount, ExtendArmBuilt into the fixture housingAC 85–265V (wide-range, worldwide)
High-Wattage (150W+)Built into the fixture housingAC 165–265V
Embedded / Recessed (Stealth Embedded, Embed Lite)Separate driver, included in the boxAC 24–36V at the fixture head
Small 7W / Track Lite / Mini BeamSeparate driver, included in the boxAC 21–25V at the fixture head

The compact recessed and mini lines run their fixture head on a genuinely low voltage, closer to landscape-lighting territory, and need a small external driver to get there from wall power — the wider-body lines build that same driver directly into the housing. Either way, the driver that bridges the two ships included, so the customer-facing answer is identical: plug it in, nothing else to buy.

So what do I actually need to buy?

Your installWhat you need
Standard indoor or outdoor plug-in projectorNothing extra. Plug it into any outlet.
Outdoor plug-in projectorA GFCI-protected outdoor outlet (a safety-code requirement for wet locations, not a voltage issue) — pair it with a weatherproof timer and switch cover if you want it fully automated.
Large architectural or recessed commercial installSometimes hardwired by a licensed electrician to a remote low-voltage transformer sized to the exact model, the way landscape lighting is. Read our hardwired vs. plug-in guide to see which one fits your project.

Will it trip a breaker?

No. Wattage tells you the draw: at 120V, even our highest-wattage single unit (100W) pulls well under 1 amp. A standard household circuit is rated for 15–20 amps, so you could run well over a dozen of our projectors on one circuit before it’s a concern. For a quick gut-check on any unit: amps ≈ watts ÷ 120.

Worked example: a 100W outdoor projector at 120V draws about 100 ÷ 120 ≈ 0.83A. Real-world draw runs a touch higher once you account for the power supply’s own conversion losses (it’s not perfectly efficient), but it stays well under 1A either way — nowhere close to tripping a 15A circuit even paired with several other units.

Will it work outside the US?

The voltage, yes — the wide 100–240V input range covers virtually every country’s mains power automatically. The one thing that can differ is the physical shape of the plug on the end of the cord. If you’re installing outside the US, you may only need a simple plug-shape adapter for your outlet — not a voltage converter, just a different-shaped plug. Let us know your destination country and we’ll confirm the right cord for your order.

Planning a permanent or multi-unit install instead? Some commercial and architectural jobs skip the wall plug entirely and wire straight to a remote transformer — the same way landscape lighting is done. See Can I Hardwire My Gobo Projector? for when that makes sense and why it’s a licensed-electrician job, not a DIY one.

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Frequently asked

Do I need a transformer for my gobo projector?

No. Every Infinity plug-in projector ships with its power supply already built into the cord — that power supply does the job of a transformer, converting standard wall power down to the low voltage the LED runs on. You just plug it into a normal outlet.

What voltage does a gobo or logo projector actually use?

Two, at two different points, and the exact numbers depend on the product line. Most Indoor/Outdoor/Multi-Gobo units have a fixture-integrated driver rated AC 85–265V at the wall; recessed Embedded and compact Small-7W/mini units run their fixture head on a lower AC 21–36V, fed by an included external driver. Either way, both numbers are correct for the same unit — input and output of the same power supply, not two different specs.

Can I just plug my projector into a normal wall outlet?

Yes, for every standard plug-in model in the catalog. Whether the driver is built into the fixture or supplied as a separate included component, it handles the wall-power conversion automatically — no electrician and no extra hardware required. Large architectural or hardwired installs are the one exception.

What’s the difference between a projector’s input voltage and output voltage?

Input voltage is what the power supply accepts from the wall outlet (AC 85–265V on most lines, narrower on High-Wattage models). Output voltage is the lower, safe voltage the power supply sends to the LED engine — a genuinely low AC voltage on the Embedded/mini lines, run through a driver built into the housing on the larger lines. The power supply sits between the two and does the conversion automatically.

Will my projector work in a country with different voltage than the US?

Yes, on the standard wide-range lines — the built-in power supply auto-switches across AC 85–265V, which covers standard mains power in virtually every country. The only thing that might differ is the physical shape of the wall plug, which a simple plug-shape adapter handles.

How many amps does a gobo projector draw, and will it trip a breaker?

Very few. As a rule of thumb, amps is roughly watts divided by 120 on a US outlet, so even a 100W unit draws well under 1 amp. A standard 15–20A household circuit has plenty of headroom for multiple units.